Maritime History of Russell
Its low tide as we take the car ferry the short hop across the bay to Russell Township. No need for sun classes today… the grey has set in but our spirits are not blue. I’m looking forward to seeing Russell as in its day it was at the cross roads of Maori culture meeting the European culture and the subsequent forming of the New Zealand we know today.
Old Shop... New Look
Driving into the little town you can see the buildings retain the style and mood of the 19th– early 20th century with the flare of the 21st century. Yes, it is a tourist town but done with a nice degree of subtlety so it’s not screaming at you. It’s more waving from a distance evoking your interest and therefore making you want to take a look.
Smiley Face Beach Going
Even with the cooling overhead cloud cover and shoreline made up of small pebbles instead of sand, people populate the beach and carry on with various water activities. We sit watching the aquatic adventures while eating delicious Kumera chips (American translation with accent = local variety of sweet potato prepared as hot fries).
Whaling Museum Russell
Walking the boardwalk a small whaling museum catches my eye. Once again its the quaint, quite nature of the presentation that makes one want to stop, read and touch.
First Church in NZ
The jewel in the crown however is the church. I don’t normally like churches and cemeteries but when I saw a black cat relaxing in the graveyard as I walked by I knew I had to investigate further as the place had an unusual welcoming air and moving demeanor that I was until now resisting.
The Omen
The next paragraph I tell because it has haunted me since (pun intended). The black cat moves from one grave to another and waits for me to read each headstone then moves to the next and repeats for the next 5 graves. Finally it takes me on a short meandering walk to a headstone off to one side then sits again until I start reading. When I finish reading the cat has disappeared. I include a photo of this last headstone for your perusal. Is there a connection… a message?
The "Last" Headstone
I continue alone now reading the headstones that tell stories of the trials, tribulations and celebrations of this little town like no history book could. Walking the rows of graves you can follow the appearance and dispersal of families who shrived to build a new nation. The touching epitaphs written in simple yet effective story telling language by those left grieving made me want more.
The Tourist Trap... Taken in by an Angel
The church itself exudes its function and utility from its well-lit and welcoming atmosphere, to the hand made pews adorned with individual or family in crested cushions, and the simple stain glass-work while under foot you feel and hear the hand hewed creaking floorboards. This was the one place in town that was really tranquil yet did scream… “come in I’ve something to sell”. A place to purchase nick knacks for the soul at the extreme fee of a little of your time. I found my tourist trap and I gladly fell for it and paid the asking price…
We drive off into the surrounding area but decide Russell is the highlight so we catch the car ferry back across the bay and drive off back to Mikes place for our final night in the Bay of Islands.
"Let there be light"... inside the church
Paul Tombleson
Paul Tombleson 