Last Chance Island

Posted in Photography with tags , , , on May 4, 2011 by Paul Tombleson

Tiritiri Matangi the last Refuge

At 6am we drive off into the pre dawn darkness leaving the sounds and smell of surf behind us to visit a place we have been hearing about since arriving in the Bay of Islands. Tiritiri Matangi a small island in the Hauraki Gulf just minutes by ferry from New Zealand’s largest city, Auckland. Yet, this little island holds the key to the future of the native birds and reptiles than in some cases were thought to be extinct or critically endangered.

Landing at Tiritiri Matangi

Driving toward the emerging light in the eastern sky, there is not another car on the road for miles. What we do see are the incandescent glow of milking sheds and smell the distinct odor of the dairy cows, which elicit child hood memories of me gathering in the early morning a container of fresh warm milk for the breakfast table while visiting my uncle’s dairy farm.

The suns rays finally streak over the eastern hills as we approach the east coast again. A right turn and we are racing back down the main highway to the Whangaparaoa Peninsula, just north of Auckland to catch the ferry the 4 kilometers to another world.

Tiritiri Matangi, meaning “tossed by the wind”, is an Open Scientific Reserve managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC) in partnership with the Supporters of Tiritiri Matangi Inc. The “open sanctuary” status allows 150 ferry visitors daily from Wednesday to Sunday onto the island. Here they can witness first hand some of New Zealand’s rarest inhabitants in a natural and protected environment. Visitors can have the opportunity to stay on the island overnight by booking through the Department of Conservation. This experience is truly unique, observing New Zealand’s nocturnal wildlife emerging as the sun goes down, wildlife such as the Little Blue Penguin (the world’s smallest penguin), the Little Spotted Kiwi, and the Tuatara.

Tiritiri Light House


 

Tiritiri Matangi is one of the world’s most successful volunteer conservation projects. It has been re-vegetated with around 300,000 native trees and consequently 12 of New Zealand’s endangered birds and 3 reptile species have been re-introduced.

The weather is bright and almost warm so we sit outside on the aft deck hoping to catch a glimpse of the dolphins that often follow the boat, but alas not this crossing. Strict controls are maintained that visitors don’t introduce unwanted animals and plants both before we leave and once we have landed. Then it is off on a walk around the island. We go in the opposite direction from most and quietly explore the shoreline and isolated parts.

Tui

This is the first time I have spent a full day “bird watching” something I don’t think would normally hold my interest. But, I found myself with keen interest having been born in Aotearoa and hearing about the extinct or rare birds.  So I was very interested in seeing them.

Native Wood Pidgeon

The Saddleback, Hihi or Stitch bird, Red Crowned Parakeet and Takahe held a special charm for me, as it was the first time I had seem them. It’s only the second time I had seen the Wood Pigeon. The Tui’s and Bellbirds dominate the sound landscape. With the Tui being one of those birds that you just love for its song, its antics and its intricate beauty.

The Thought to be Extinct "Takahe"

A truly unique place and well worth the visit if for nothing else than to appreciate all the hard labor, commitment and courage to set up this open sanctuary. A true national treasure and example for the rest of the world to follow.

My sore feet and tired limbs never did a more rewarding days work…

West Coast- Heavens Above!

Posted in Photography with tags , on May 2, 2011 by Paul Tombleson

Life on the West Coast

The West Coast of New Zealand is another animal compared to the east coast. The Tasman Sea has caved out a more exposed coastline lending itself to long sandy stretches and rugged rocky outcrops. Its still New Zealand however and therefore still dramatic and still beautiful.

New Zealand Giant Kauri Tree

We cross from the Bay of Islands over pastureland and into hilly country of mixed farming and large native forests. We stop for a rest at the last remaining giant Kauri tree, a behemoth that was once ubiquitous in these parts. But, like all resources of the 19th and 20th centuries they were  cut down on mass for marine and building use. The only thing that could be considered in the same league or bigger than the giant Kauri would be the giant Sequoia in California.

A true majesty of a tree it echoes a past from around the time Christ walked the earth. Its top reduced by lighting strikes, its limbs battered and mangled by time. Yet it remains a leviathan and link to a time before man walked this land leaving only the birds and creatures of the forest to take shelter under its dominion. We take council of this old soul before moving on.

Driving down onto the lowlands we make the final turn to the coast and meet up with my cousin who has decided on a semi-retired life on a beach. A beach that you cannot see the end of in either direction and her  constant companions are a tiny town of friendly people, her rascal cat and the sound of surf crashing 24/7… poor thing!

Miles and Miles to... Walk the Walk and Talk the Talk

Walking in the late afternoon on the wide expansive beach with the salt air blowing off the sea, the wet sand underfoot we take stock of how lucky we are to be on this trip.

Goose-neck barnacles

Next day on my early morning multi mile walk I find many fascinating items scattered along the shoreline, including many large pieces of driftwood covered with Goose-neck barnacles, which look and act like extraterrestrial creatures. The remainder of the day we decide to stay put on the sunny balcony relaxing and catching up with family chitchat and the rest of our Feijoa stash.

Sand Sole

It turns out the extraterrestrial encounters I had earlier in the day was just a pre cursor to the real thing this night. We are treated to a one on one tour of the heavens from an extremely personable, knowledgeable and enthusiastic astronomer at her observatory. Wow, what a treat… Wow, what a universe and beyond and Wow, what an out of this world end to our trip to the west coast!

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Russell- Old Town with Young “Spirit”…

Posted in Photography with tags , , on May 1, 2011 by Paul Tombleson

Maritime History of Russell

Its low tide as we take the car ferry the short hop across the bay to Russell Township. No need for sun classes today… the grey has set in but our spirits are not blue. I’m looking forward to seeing Russell as in its day it was at the cross roads of Maori culture meeting the European culture and the subsequent forming of the New Zealand we know today.

Old Shop... New Look

Driving into the little town you can see the buildings retain the style and mood of the 19th– early 20th century with the flare of the 21st century. Yes, it is a tourist town but done with a nice degree of subtlety so it’s not screaming at you. It’s more waving from a distance evoking your interest and therefore making you want to take a look.

Smiley Face Beach Going

Even with the cooling overhead cloud cover and shoreline made up of small pebbles instead of sand, people populate the beach and carry on with various water activities. We sit watching the aquatic adventures while eating delicious Kumera chips (American translation with accent = local variety of sweet potato prepared as hot fries).

Whaling Museum Russell

Walking the boardwalk a small whaling museum catches my eye. Once again its the quaint, quite nature of the presentation that makes one want to stop, read and touch.

First Church in NZ

The jewel in the crown however is the church. I don’t normally like churches and cemeteries but when I saw a black cat relaxing in the graveyard as I walked by I knew I had to investigate further as the place had an unusual welcoming air and moving demeanor that I was until now resisting.

The Omen

The next paragraph I tell because it has haunted me since (pun intended). The black cat moves from one grave to another and waits for me to read each headstone then moves to the next and repeats for the next 5 graves. Finally it takes me on a short meandering walk to a headstone off to one side then sits again until I start reading. When I finish reading the cat has disappeared. I include a photo of this last headstone for your perusal. Is there a connection… a message?

The "Last" Headstone

I continue alone now reading the headstones that tell stories of the trials, tribulations and celebrations of this little town like no history book could. Walking the rows of graves you can follow the appearance and dispersal of families who shrived to build a new nation. The touching epitaphs written in simple yet effective story telling language by those left grieving made me want more.

The Tourist Trap... Taken in by an Angel

The church itself exudes its function and utility from its well-lit and welcoming atmosphere, to the hand made pews adorned with individual or family in crested cushions, and the simple stain glass-work while under foot you feel and hear the hand hewed creaking floorboards. This was the one place in town that was really tranquil yet did scream… “come in I’ve something to sell”. A place to purchase nick knacks for the soul at the extreme fee of a little of your time. I found my tourist trap and I gladly fell for it and paid the asking price…

We drive off into the surrounding area but decide Russell is the highlight so we catch the car ferry back  across the bay and drive off back to Mikes place for our final night in the Bay of Islands.

"Let there be light"... inside the church

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Bay of Contrasts (Islands) Day-2

Posted in Photography with tags , on April 30, 2011 by Paul Tombleson

With a stash of Feijoas on board and we hit the road to explore the surrounding areas. It is interesting that apart from Auckland the traffic is always light and wherever we end up we seem to be almost alone. Today is no different with miles of deserted beaches and grand views seemingly reserved just for us. This is just one of the many advantages of having four million friendly inhabitant to share a whole country with.

Soaking up the UV's

Each twist in the road brings another view of the hill country to the west or island dotted bay to the east. The pastel colors of the water are sparkling clean and clear making us give up driving for a couple of hours and just sit on a beach or oyster encrusted rock soaking up the UV’s. Fish hide in the seaweed and dart in and out while the sound of grabs scratching from crevice to crevice plays rhythm with the gentle lapping of intermittent waves.

Ready for a dip

Post Office Cafe Mangonui

Further North at Mangonui we stop for lunch at the Post Office Café and while I enjoyed my falafel sandwich Janette’s baked potato with Portobello mushrooms stole the show. It was one of those dishes that looked fantastic and tasted even better. Highly recommended for presentation and taste and I wish I took a picture of it to share with y’all. Some things you just have to experience yourself.

End of another day and time to relax in Mikes yard with the covey of Quail visiting, while the sun goes down before our wild life photographer guest arrives to inspire us to plan a trip to a one of a kind island.

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Bay of Islands- Day One

Posted in Photography with tags , on April 30, 2011 by Paul Tombleson

Front Yard Just after Sunrise at Mikes Place

We arrive at our destination as the sun is going down. Mike gives us a quick tour of the grounds to get our bearings. Janette and Mike whip up a great dinner out of nothing and we settle in for a moon lit night just North of Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands.

Morning Moon over Mikes Place

The morning as promised has the rising Sun coming up over the Pacific Ocean and the full Moon setting in the western hills. The light is streaming into Mike quaint and eclectic house and I can’t resist snapping away before I walk out into the garden to pick Feijoas for breakfast.

Interesting Form following Function...

Sitting down to breakfast in the front garden we are joined by a bevy of quail nearby. The Tui’s, Fantails, and Wax-eyes chatter and flitter around us while the Sun reflex’s off the bay.

The house and property are truly idyllic and miles from the main road and seemingly miles from the rat race. Besides, Mike as a conservationist doesn’t allow rats on his property, as they are not indigenous…

Morning Light through Window

Feijoas

The Feijoas are delicious and abundant and make the perfect morning finger food along with some locally made yogurt.

The sights and sounds are infectious and we decide to stay put and enjoy our surroundings and wait until later to explore the nearby bays and vistas.

Morning Meditation Seat

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